23 May

As my first flight was due to leave at 6.30am, I stayed overnight at the Premier Inn at Heathrow Terminal 4. A rise at 3.30am was still unwelcome, but at least all I had to do was to walk to the terminal from the hotel once I’d had a bit of breakfast and the all important coffee.

Bag drop went well, I was just under the 23kg limit. I boarded the flight to Amsterdam in good time, and then continued to fret over the fact that there was only an hour to make the connecting flight to Tallinn. 

We landed on time in Amsterdam and I strode out of the plane, determined to keep going and just ensure I did my best to catch the next flight. The immigration queue (as we were entering into the EU at this point) moved quickly enough. I was even able to do a toilet visit before getting into the queue for boarding. Whew!

What I hadn’t thought through, of course, is the impact of the short turn around on luggage. When I arrived at Tallinn, my bag was still in Amsterdam. This was the case for eight other people on the group trip. We filed one claim for the nine bags, and then left the airport to find our guide. She said this was quite common, due to the short turn around, and we would most likely have our suitcases by the next day.

A 30 minute drive brought us to our hotel. To my great joy, I discovered that I would have a room on my own. The travel company I use, if you’re willing to share, won’t charge single supplement if they don’t find someone to share with you. I dumped my backpack and went to the local shops to buy a toothbrush, toothpaste, and a t-shirt so I’d have something clean to pull on the next day. As the weather was lovely, warm and sunny, I bought a ‘English type cider’ made in Estonia and drank it outside. 

Our hotel overlooked the train station. On the other side was a local market, offering fruit and veg, as well as shops selling car parts, items for mobile phones, cafes, and a supermarket. I headed there after my cider to buy a converter. Normally I pack one in my carry on, but for some reason hadn’t done so this time, and I needed to be able to charge my phone. 

The group met up at the hotel’s restaurant that evening. There were nineteen of us, plus our local guide. Each of us introduced ourselves, and then our guide did an initial briefing. Afterwards we had dinner at the restaurant. I ordered the rabbit pasta, which also came with lovely dark bread and garlic cream cheese. A baltic porter washed it down, but as the dark beer was quite alcoholic at 7.9%, I only had the one.

An early night, going to bed at 10pm.

24 May

Slept well, despite the early morning activity at the train station (I had opened the windows to let in fresh air and to cool down the room—no air conditioning). Another bright and sunny day beckoned as I pulled on my fresh t-shirt and headed down for breakfast.

Breakfast consisted of bacon, sausage, something called an omelette which looked like a cake, the usual cereals, porridge, toast, cheese, and sliced fruit. The coffee was good and very welcome. I had packed a travel kettle in my case and hoped I’d be able to use it second morning onwards.

At 9am we assembled and were off. We had a local guide rather than our main guide to take us around Tallinn. The old town was around a ten minute walk from our hotel, which we took slowly as our guide made many stops for explanations.

The local park was called Toompark, as it was the pond was the last remaining section of the old moat. The old grand buildings stood on a rocky bluff, looking down at us and the many birds flitting around. The direct steps up were under repair, but as these looked quite steep I believe we were all rather happy to be going along the road.

I missed my hats (both in the case!) and kept to the shade as the day warmed nicely (but not excessively). We headed up Long Leg Street, so named as it was the wide street built for travel by horses. Most of the street was cobbles, so we walked on the smoother pedestrian stone blocks on the left. 

Our guide gave us a short history of Estonia. The country has been under the rule of other countries for most of its history, including Denmark, Germany, Russia, Sweden, Poland, and the Soviet Union. Independence was first declared in 23 February 1918, but final independence, from the Soviet Union, didn’t occur until 20 August 1991. 

Tallinn dates back to the 13th century, when knights built a castle here during the crusades. The city became a major centre for the Hanseatic League, and the wealth led to building of the many churches and fine merchant houses. As we walked through, I was reminded of old cities in Germany and Switzerland, the grand buildings of painted stone lining squares and cobbled streets. 

Many of the former merchant houses are now in private hands, or serve as government buildings. We passed the Mexican Embassy at one point. At the top of the old town, we took in the views, including that of our hotel and the Baltic Sea in the distance. A seagull flew over to check if we had anything to offer him.

We visited the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, an Eastern Orthodox church built 1894-1900. Free entry, no photography allowed inside. I bought a candle and lit it, praying for various people currently on my mind. As usual in an Orthodox church, many lovely icons hung on walls and stood on stands. 

At the Danish King’s Garden, our guide explained once more that although Estonians are not particularly religious, they are very superstitious. Ghosts are said to haunt various areas of Tallinn, and in particular the Garden. Three large statues of monks (without faces) stood in the grounds, named Ambrosius, Bartholomeus, and Claudius. The Garden takes its name from the old legend that a Danish flag descended from the sky during the Danish invasion, and turned the course of battle in favour of King Valdemar II. The Estonian national emblem of three blue lions originates from the coat of arms of that king, and the emblem can be seen on many official buildings. 

We passed an area set up in support of Ukraine. After visiting the Town Hall Square, where we admired the dragon downpipes, our tour was finished. Three hours and not a dull moment. 

Our afternoon was free for our own wanderings. I made my way through the old town, finding a corner shop at which to buy a sandwich and a drink (prices in the restaurants were very high). I sat on a doorstep and as I munched my cheese sandwich, a dog approached and gave me a hopeful look. Said dog looked rather well fed, and his owner was nearby, so I told him, ‘Nothing from me, mate.’ 

As I ate, a man came up and started reaching into the rubbish in the nearby trash bin. He pulled out bottles and cans which, I assume, he was collecting for the recycle deposit charged in Estonia. An official, wearing a jacket and carrying a trash collecting stick, came up to the man. I thought the official was going to tell him off. What actually happened is that the official unlocked the plastic door for the bin, which gave the man easier access to the contents. When the man had finished, the official locked the door again. 

I visited several churches. St Olaf’s, with a very plain interior. St Mary’s Cathedral, which is Lutheran (originally Catholic) and had many coats of arms hanging on the walls inside. Entrance fee was 2 Euros, although the man at the desk intoned, ‘Thank you for your contribution.’

In need of a break, I found a bar with outdoor shaded seating. Although it might have been wiser to order a lager, I was once again drawn to a Baltic porter. The barkeep told me ‘It’s not too strong.’ And I replied, ‘But if I roll down the hill after drinking it, who’s going to catch me?’ It was very pleasant to people watch as I slowly downed my beer. 

Afterwards I walked on to Niguliste Museum, which used to be a church. The entry fee here was 14 Euros, which made me hesitate. Then I reminded myself that I’ll probably never visit Tallinn again so I paid the fee and went inside.

A recently completed lift took me up to the view area in the tower. Lovely to look over the city, and a build up of clouds provided the mixed light which I prefer for landscape photography. Another level held a display regarding pilgrimage throughout the ages, and further down there was a ‘Sanctuary for Homeless Church Bells.’ There were bells which churches no longer needed. 

The first level was what had been the church, with various displays. This included the 25 foot long  remnant of a Dance Macabre. The painting is thought to have been around 100 feet long, displaying the royal and noble as well as the poor and young dancing with figures representing death. The artwork is attributed to Bernt Notke, and was commissioned in the late 15th century.

I started my journey back to the hotel, and arrived around 5pm. My case was waiting for me in storage, and I was very pleased to drag it to my room. I celebrated with a shower and a change of underwear. The heavens opened as I dressed, and I watched heavy rain drench unprepared walkers. 

At 7pm I went to the hotel restaurant to eat dinner. I had the ‘poke bowl’, a mixed offering of Korean themed food consisting of salad, kimchi, and crispy pork. The only bit I couldn’t eat was the ginger. Afterwards, in the company of some of our group, I had Baltic porter. The bartender, when I finally returned my empty glass, insisted that I try the local spiced rum. It was very nice, but I only dared to have a small shot on top of the strong beer.

25 May

Because I had the windows open, I could hear the distant thump of music as people celebrated the start of the weekend. This added a bit of variety to the beeps of train doors opening and shutting. Fortunately none of this kept me from my sleep.

Although once again I found the hotel breakfast offerings satisfactory, others in the group were less impressed. Always interesting to me how much opinions can differ on such matters. Afterwards I returned to my room and packed up my case, reporting as required in the lobby at 8.30am.

Our coach and driver turned up a few minutes later, and he wrestled most of our cases into the bus. We drove out of the city and into the countryside. It was only an hour later that our guide realised she had left her case on the sidewalk outside the hotel. I always follow the rule of ‘Don’t board the bus until you’re seen your case go on.’ She made arrangements during the day with fellow guides to have her case taken by other tourist buses to our next city.

The countryside was flat, a mixture of fields and thin trees. We passed very few villages. Estonia is a small country of around 45 square kilometres (with around 2000 islands) and a population of 1.4 million. 

We entered the Lahemaa National Park, collecting a local guide, and our first stop was at a manor house called Palmsie. The house was built in the 1700s by a wealthy German family. The outdoor museum has not only the main building, but various others such as a brewery, greenhouse, and a blacksmith’s. The formal gardens included a labyrinth and waterfowl swam in the nearby pond. We had around 45 minutes to look around. Near the coach parking was a stork on a nest, built on top of a chimney. We couldn’t decide whether she had chicks.

A short drive onwards brought us to the seaside. Our local guide first picked some flowers, showing us how a dandelion flower, held under the chin, showed whether you’d eaten butter (?—I may have misheard). She plucked the flowers from a forget-me-not and also had a man blow the seeds from another dandelion. Because some seeds remained she declared that he had been ‘Mostly faithful’. 

We walked down the road to the beach. The houses are occupied by private owners. Our local guide explained that young people move away from these rural areas to live and work in the cities. Therefore there are no schools nor many facilities, such as stores. The houses looked well cared for, including an old sauna with a large wooden carving outside. 

The day was warm and people were wearing shorts and t-shirts. So the mosquitoes we encountered were very pleased. The numbers of insects increased as we walked past stagnant water and approached the shore. Erratics (large boulders left behind when the glaciers once prevalent in the area had melted) hunkered in gardens and in the water. Two swans and various seagulls drifted on the blue waters. The smell of salt and seaweed filled the air.

We crossed a suspension bridge. At the beach, several people took off their shoes to paddle in the cold water. Clouds were beginning to gather in the sky and the mosquitoes were even fiercer. After a little while, we walked back to our coach, swatting away the bloodsuckers. A number of people gained multiple bites, whereas the mosquitoes seemed to avoid me altogether. 

As we drove on, the clouds decided they’d had enough. Rain sluiced down, and I saw a flash of lightning. Those of us who had come prepared drew waterproofs from our bags, and pulled those on once we reached our lunch stop. 

A small restaurant offering sandwiches, soup, and simple hot meals welcomed us. I had a small beetroot and herring salad, as I was still digesting my large breakfast. The rain ceased during our visit, and some brave people risked more mosquito action by having an ice cream or a coffee outside. When we climbed back into the bus, we sought out and squashed any insects which had entered with us.

Rain began again as we travelled south, so heavy at one point that our driver had to slow the pace as he could hardly see through the windscreen. Thirty minutes later we had emerged from the rain and back into sunshine. 

At Tartu, the second largest city in Estonia, we checked into our hotel. Thirty minutes later, we gathered to meet with a local guide for a walking tour of the city. We started by strolling along the river. Bars lined the banks, and people were enjoying the warm and fine weather. We continued into the oldest part of the city, lined with grand buildings and celebrating the fact that the city is the European Capital of Culture for 2024. In addition, the Tour of Estonia Cycle Race had reached Tartu. The cyclists were doing laps of the area, and we twice had good viewpoints to watch them cycle uphill on a cobblestone road. 

The first mention of Tartu was in 1030, when a fortress was built by the Grand Duke Yaroslav of Kiev. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. We admired the town hall and the statue in the water fountain outside, ‘The Kissing Students’. The chemical smell of chlorine hit my nostrils when I wandered too close. Walking up the hill (rather warm in the sunshine!) brought us to the Old Observatory (built 1810) and the ruins of the cathedral (started in the 13th century and destroyed by Protestants in the 1520s). Part of the cathedral has been restored and operates as a museum. 

We walked back down and went to the Gunpowder Cellar for our evening meal. As indicated by the name, the restaurant is in the building which used to store gunpower. The cellar was built into the location of the city’s former moat in 1763. I admired the tall walls whilst drinking the house red ale (very nice) and eating the Estonian version of BBQ pork ribs. The BBQ sauce was sweeter than the British version, and rather than a rack of ribs I was given two very large ones. On the side was red cabbage and mashed potato into which horseradish sauce had been mixed. Very tasty. I needed a second beer to wash it down.

26 May

We left the hotel at 9am and headed south. A couple of hours later we drove through Valga. Half-way through the city we crossed the border and were now in Latvia. Our bus had to stop for some legal readjustment by our driver, something which our guide explained as a measuring device. 

As we continued our journey, I found the countryside becoming more interesting. We drove through towns with a mixture of brick and wooden buildings, and we passed more bodies of water. 

After a comfort break, we headed to the river. The travel company had made a big point that our trip would include an element of ‘Citizen Science’. We were placed into groups of three, and given a water-sampling kit. At the river, we scouted out a locale where we could get down to the brackish water. Our guide waded out to fill each of our large plastic bags with liquid. For our group, I read out the instructions whilst the other two followed them. We had to pull water into a large syringe, attach a small filter on to the end of the syringe, then expel the water through the filter. We did this four times before using a smaller syringe to add preservative to the contents of the filter. Small caps sealed both ends of the filter before this was placed into a specimen bag and we labeled a report card with the details of where we’d sampled the water. The samples will be posted to a laboratory in England.

I’d say that most of the group weren’t really that interested in the experiment, and I would have preferred to have been doing something else, pleasant as it was to be in the countryside. I question how much value our samples will have, and I was appalled about the amount of plastic used for the experiment. 

Our next stop was Cesis, a town known for its 13th century castle. Our guide said we had 45 minutes in the town and took us to a cafe for lunch. I followed the example of several others in the group, deciding to skip lunch (I had a breakfast bar in my backpack to eat) in order to visit the ruined castle. It was a good ten minute walk to the site, at which we had around 20 minutes before we had to head back to the bus. But I’m glad I made the trip as the ruins were quite impressive. I tried not to grumble that I’d rather we’d had more time at the castle than have done the water sampling at the river.

A thirty minute drive brought us to Turaida Castle. We paid a Euro each to hire a local guide, who took us into the extensive grounds. Various video displays added to her explanations regarding the site, which included a church and various other buildings with exhibitions about ancient life in the area. 

The castle itself was originally constructed in 1214 under the direction of Albert, Bishop of Riga. Archbishops of Riga used the castle as a residence and a storage place for important documents. 

At the castle itself I detached from the guide’s long historical explanation to go back out into the courtyard. Various birds flew past with insects in their beaks, no doubt destined to feed young. A climb up the tower led to wonderful views over the Gauja Valley. I waited for some time for clouds to drift past the sun, providing the mixture of light and shade which I prefer for landscape photography.

This did mean a quick march to arrive back at our starting point for 5pm. The day was quite warm at 27c, so I was a bit sweaty by the time I reached the others. Those who had arrived earlier had treated themselves to an ice cream.

Just over an hour later we arrived in Riga and checked into our hotel. Most of us ate at the hotel’s restaurant, sitting outside in the lovely weather. I had a local cider (tasted more like French cider than English style, very fruity) and a Latvian dish of beef cheek. This turned out to be very tender meat, served on a bed of mashed potatoes and covered with crispy curls of fried carrot. 

27 May

Not only the usual hot drinks and fruit juices were offered at breakfast, so was sparkling wine! I took a glass but only drank a small amount as it was a bit too sweet for me.

Another 9am start. The relaxed mornings were very welcome, as was yet another bright, sunny day. We were joined by a local guide who walked us from the hotel in the old part of the city, just a couple of minutes away. 

Riga was founded in 1201 and was a member of the Hanseatic League. At various times the city has been under Swedish, German, and Russian control. Riga is the capital of Latvia, home to around 600,000 people, which accounts for a third of Latvia’s population.

We visited the only remaining part of the city walls and walked through the thick tunnel. The tour took us past many of the interesting buildings. The House of the Blackheads, near the Town Hall Square, charmed us when we arrived in time to hear the clock play a musical number to mark the hour. The House was originally built in 1334 by merchants, and from the mid 15th century was used by the Guild of the Blackheads. The Guild members were unmarried merchants, and they used the building for meetings and celebrations. The building was badly damaged in World War II, and the ruins were pulled down by the Soviet Government. A reconstruction was finished in 2000, partially funded by people donating towards the costs by buying a brick. 

Part way through the morning we had a comfort break, visiting a cafe for the loos and a hot drink. Another notable building we enjoyed seeing was the Cat House. This was built in 1909 in the Art Nouveau style by a trader who was not admitted to the Great Guild. He put cat sculptures on the two corner turrets as a protest, their tails facing the nearby building of the Great Guild. 

At the end of one street we came across a man playing a French horn. He gave us a rendition of ‘Rule Britannia’. I rarely give money to buskers, but I appreciated his creativity and threw a Euro coin into the cap at his feet. 

Our tour concluded at noon in Dome Square, outside Riga Cathedral. Half of the group had paid to attend a 20 minute organ concert inside. I found a bench in the shade and ate a breakfast bar, sharing parts of it with sparrows. 

An unsuccessful attempt to find the Barricades Museum led me to a cafe where I had lunch. I then walked the mile or so to ‘Quiet Centre’, the area of the city which has many Art Nouveau buildings. The walk took me through some pleasant parks and along the river, allowing me to take refuge under the trees from the hot sun. 

The ornate apartments were built in the 1900s for renting out to the wealthy. Many are concentrated in Alberta Street, and I struggled to capture their beauty even with my wide angle lens. A number of guided groups walked up and down the area. I heard a lot of German as well as English being spoken.

As I sat down for rest, I watched an old woman with a very old dog. She seemed to be holding him upright so he could relieve himself. The small dog looked so weak and frail that I wondered how much longer the woman expected him to live. When she walked past, dog in her arms, I couldn’t decide which was suffering more, the dog or the sorrowful looking owner. 

I made my way back to the old part of the city and paid to enter St Peter’s Church. A set of steps led to a lift which took me up the tower. A viewing platform provided wonderful views over the city. Clouds drifted over the sun, providing a mixture of light and shade. I stayed quite a while, taking photos.

After locating my hotel, I found a nearby off-licence and bought a chilled bottle of porter. My room had a fridge, and I added my bottle to the mini-bar’s collection when I finally returned at 6pm. After such a long day, I decided to have a snack dinner in my room, work on photos, and drink my beer rather than go out again.

28 May

An even later start, 9.15am. I decided not to have the sparkling wine at breakfast, tucking instead into fruit, mini croissants, bacon, and a fried egg.

We drove to the seaside resort of Jurmala, about thirty minutes by road from Riga. The bus took us on a short tour past the splendid villas, many of them out of wood and in the Art Nouveau style. During the Soviet area, the city was a favourite holiday area for high level Communist party officials, such as Leonid Brezhnev and Nikita Khrushchev. 

We walked from the car park into the city. I continued on through the residential streets to reach the beach. The beach stretches for 33 kilometres and was dotted with porta potties, rubbish bins, and small cafes. A boardwalk along the edge of bushes and trees enabled me to stay off the sand. I made my way to one cafe and bought an ice-cream. Two other members of our group joined me soon later, buying coffees to enjoy in the shade. 

Afterwards I walked back to the town and along the pedestrianised area, visiting a couple of shops. Our guide had offered 1pm as a return time to Riga, and I was quite happy to leave at that time. 

After our return, and a quick visit to my hotel room, I walked back to the old part of the city and had lunch (BBQ pork ribs) near the remaining section of the town wall. Afterwards, with grim determination, I finally found the Barricades Museum. I’d walked past it several times, as it wasn’t particularly easy to spot.

The 1991 Barricades Museum (entry by donation, so I put in a 5 Euro note) marks the events of that year. In January the Soviet Union government took steps against the protests in Lithuania, attacking the television tower in Vilnius. People in Riga reacted by protesting as well, seeking to assert Latvia’s independence. As they feared that the Soviet Union army might also attack important buildings in Riga, barricades were built out of concrete blocks, logs, and wire around sites such as government offices, the TV and radio stations, and bridges. There were skirmishes between the protestors and Soviet Union army forces, resulting in injuries and loss of life. 

The small museum offered exhibits of life in Latvia under the Soviets, a room which recreated the barricades and showed video of the events, as well as commemorations of those who died and the importance of TV and radio for both broadcasting information and capturing the events. As I’d known nothing about this before visiting Latvia, I was pleased that I’d never given up trying to find the museum and was able to learn more about this part of local history.

I walked to the Town Square and decided to visit the House of the Blackheads. Entry fee was 7 Euros, or 8 with a coffee, 9 Euros for entry and a glass of Prosecco. The woman at the entrance desk explained that I was welcome to take the drink up to the Festive Hall, taking a seat to enjoy the surroundings. I decided that it would be far safer to walk up the stairs with wine rather than coffee, so I paid the 9 Euros. All in the interest of health and safety, of course.

Indeed, it as rather pleasant to take a seat and sip wine whilst watching people make their way through the room. Paintings of dashing young men on horses lined the walls and chandeliers hung from the ceiling. A large fly showed interest in my glass, but I swatted him away. The dry Prosecco was too nice to share. 

Afterwards I wandered through the many rooms and signed the visitors’ book. A lift took me to the cellars, where displays explained that the name of the merchants’ group came from their patron saint, Maurice. He was from Egypt, traditionally dressed as a soldier and was a black man. His head was featured on the group’s coat of arms. 

I remained in the Town Square for some time afterwards. When our group had visited the area the day before, the sun had been behind the House of the Blackheads. I wanted to take photographs with the sun landing on the facade. I found a bench and caught up on emails as I waited for the sun to move around. Fortunately, when I felt it was the right time to employ my camera, there were very few people in the area so I could take shots without a lot of bodies cluttering the view.

The light was also falling nicely on the statue of the Town Musicians of Bremen outside St Peter’s church. The statue was gifted to Riga by the city of Bremen, and the intention had been to place it in a ‘Park of Peace’, but the park was never built and it ended up near the church instead. By tradition, rubbing the animals’ snouts will enable you to make a wish, and the higher up the animal the more wishes you can make. I contented myself with taking photos. 

We’d been advised that a free classical music concert was offered in St Peter’s Church at 6pm. I went inside, offering a 1 Euro coin in the donations box before taking my seat. A piano recital started us off, then a tenor singer accompanied by piano, before a chamber quartet took over. I left just before the end, stopping by the off-licence to buy another bottle of porter to take to my room. After the large and late lunch, I was quite happy to have some nuts and the beer as my evening meal.

29 May

An even later departure at 9.30am. I allowed myself a glass of the sparkling wine at breakfast. Our cases were loaded on to the bus and we headed out for our hour’s drive to Rundale Palace. 

The large Palace was built for the Duke of Courland in the 18th century. The Duke started out as a groom and ‘favourite’ (as our local guide phrased it) of Anna Ioanovna. When she became the Russian empress, she endowed him with his title and he became a powerful political figure. In 1736 the Duke commissioned the Italian baroque designer Bartolomeo Rastrelli to build the residence. Rastrelli was the designer of the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. 

The Duke’s fortunes fell upon the death of the Empress. He was exiled and the unfinished palace stood as empty shell for 22 years. Catherine II pardoned him, and the Duke returned to resume the construction. The Palace was finished in 1768. A series of Russian nobles occupied the Palace after that time. The building was damaged in 1812 during the Franco-Russian war, and again in 1919 during the Latvian War of Independence. Restoration has been carried out over a number of years. 

The young man who served as our guide took us through a number of rooms, both the grand ones for entertaining and the smaller rooms for meetings. He pointed out the paintings on the ceilings and on the walls, as well as the chamber pots (rather ornate!). His dry sense of humour enlivened many of his explanations, for example when he pointed out that one Duke had had four children although for the last one he and his much younger wife had slept in separate parts of the buildings for years. 

The ropes which kept visitors from wandering into rooms were attached to alarms, as I discovered when I brushed up against one. Stepping back immediately halted the loud noise. 

After the hour long tour, we only had around thirty minutes to dash around the outside. There was little time to visit the gardens before reporting back to the bus. Several in the group ended up in the wrong car park, so we headed off slightly later than planned. We crossed into Lithuania, and again our driver stopped to make some form of adjustment inside the bus. 

After our lunch stop, we visited the Hill of Crosses. The first mention of the Hill was in 1850, but it’s thought the site began to be used in 1831. Relatives of victims of revolts against the Russian regime were forbidden to hold funerals or to properly bury their dead, so relatives started to put crosses on the hill instead. In 1961, during the Soviet era, the authorities bulldozed and burnt down the entire site. However, the locals rebuilt it, and continued to rebuild several more times, usually under the cover of darkness. 

There are supposedly over 100,000 crosses on the hill. Souvenir stores at the entrance sell such items, although at 5 Euros for the simplest one I felt these were overpriced. We were only given 30 minutes to visit, so we quickly walked to the site. 

The area was covered with crosses, large and small, as well as statues of the Virgin and many rosaries. Most of the crosses were wooden, but a few were made of metal. One statue of Mary was so covered with rosaries that I wondered how she managed to stay upright. A linnet flitted around one area, carrying dried grasses in her beak. 

Clouds were gathering when we hurried back to the bus. We were safely inside when the heavens opened and rain sliced down. I saw lightning in the distance. The temperatures dropped dramatically and those wearing shorts shivered, particularly as the driver kept the air conditioning on.

We arrived at our hotel in Klaipeda around 6.20pm. As requested, we dumped our cases into our rooms and reported back in the lobby. Our bus took us to the old part of the town, where we had dinner in a restaurant with views over the port and the town. Afterwards, a number of us gathered outside the hotel to share some whisky.

30 May

8.45am departure to drive to the nearby port. We took the vehicle ferry (we remained on our bus) for the ten minute journey across to the Curonian Spit.

The Curonian Spit is a 98 kilometre long, thin and sandy piece of land which separates the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea. It’s a peninsula, not an island, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The northern section is Lithuanian, and the southern is part of Russia. The Spit is home to the largest moving sand dunes in Europe, some of them 60 metres high. 

Our driver paid the ‘ecological fee’ upon entry, and we drove through pine forests, keeping an eye on the overhead clouds. Roadworks held up our travel. At the Hill of Witches we disembarked and followed our guide up the steps to the well maintained path. As soon as we were in the midst of the pine forest the mosquitoes descended, and the lemony chemical smell of bug repellent overwhelmed the green scent of trees. As we walked, we admired the many wooden carvings which depicted witches, devils, and beings from folklore. The original 25 statues were created in 1979, to celebrate the Year of the Child. Another 71 were carved and erected between 1979 and 1981. Over time, a few more have been added and older ones restored.

As we continued our journey along the Spit, we passed an area of nearly dead trees. A large number of cormorants have set up nests in the area, and their acidic droppings kill off foliage. Our guide explained that she used to stop at the area for people to take photos, but the birds’ droppings also landed on vehicle roofs and caused similar damage.

Further south brought us to Parnidis Dune, at 52 metres above sea level. A path took us up to the large granite sundial and a viewing platform over the nearby coast. We could see into the Russian territory, not far away. A dragonfly hunted nearby as we admired the setting, the sunlight dulled by high level clouds.

Our guide had asked if we were interested in a boat trip on the lagoon, at 15 Euros per person. We all agreed, and the bus took us to the town of Nida. We walked to the harbour and boarded the vessel, the captain greeting us personally. We set off, following the coastline of the Spit. Sailboats whisked past us as we admired views of the town, including two churches (Lutheran and Catholic) as well as the hilltop lighthouse. 

The sand dunes followed. We saw a White-tailed sea eagle sitting near the top of one dune, a flock of seagulls resting nearby. Herons flew along the shore line. The boat’s first mate showed us a map to explain the geography. He also pointed out the red buoys in the water which marked the border between Russia and Lithuania. 

Our guide brought out a tourist version of a highly painted weather vane. In 1844, a system of marking to control fishing in the lagoon was introduced. Rectangular tin shields were painted on the sides of fishing vessels, under a system of symbols and colours which identified the area from which the ship had come. The fishermen, when unable to work, incorporated these flags into carved wooden weathervanes. Local landmarks such as the lighthouse were included, as well as buildings (often depicting the sort of house they hoped to own), trees, and elks. 

Once back at the harbour, we walked the short distance to a fish restaurant. The fisherman who owned the place sold locally caught, smoked fish out front. There were various types to choose from the drying rack, namely eel, sea bass, mackerel, catfish, and bream. I pointed out one of the latter, which was loaded on to a paper plate and handed to me. Cost 8 Euros. Inside the building I picked up rye bread and took this outside with a bottle of Coke. Our guide had explained that one ate the fish with one’s fingers, and that is what I did. The flesh was very tender, and very tasty although not very smoky in flavour.

Afterwards I went on a short walk through the town, stopping off to look at souvenir shops. Amber is quite pricy, and I resisted various temptations. At the Tourist Information I asked where the Amber Museum was, only to be embarrassed when the woman pointed at the building on the other side of the road.

At the Amber Museum, I joined a couple of other people on a quick guided tour. Although small, the museum featured many examples of amber and was quite thorough in explanations. At the shop, I examined pieces of amber which incorporate ‘Inclutions’ (sic), namely insects and/or arachnids. From a young age, long before the film ‘Jurassic Park’ had made this popular, I’d wanted to own such a piece of amber. The woman in the shop stumbled over her English, and was quite glad to switch to German at my suggestion. I resisted buying a piece which cost 3000 Euros, settling for something much smaller and a fraction of the price. The slice of amber holds a rather small but perfectly formed spider. 

We followed our guide out of town and back to the bus. Last stop was at the seaside. I bought an ice cream and watched as fellow travellers took off shoes and socks to paddle in the water. 

After taking the ferry back to the mainland, we stopped off for a short walking tour of the old town of Klaipeda. A statue of a climbing monk entertained us. It seems he’s one of the ghost stories of the area. We admired the old buildings, particularly in the town square, and looked longingly at the nearby hotels and cafes. Our own hotel was several miles away, in the middle of an industrial estate. Although we had the option to remain behind, and make our own way back, as it was now 6pm and it’d been a long day only person decided not to board the bus for the hotel.

As the fish lunch had been quite large, I had a few snacks in my room before going down to the hotel’s restaurant. I ordered a porter, and joined others outside. About thirty minutes later the heavens opened, and a thunderstorm lashed through the area. I hurried back to my room, as I’d opened the window wide to let in fresh air. As I’d feared, rain was streaming in. I shut the window and mopped up the desk and the windowsill. Fortunately I hadn’t put many belongings on the desk, and the heat soon dried out the area.

31 May

Another relaxed 9am start, after enduring breakfast and poor coffee. We all agreed that the hotel was not to be recommended, being so far away from anything interesting, the rooms not particularly well cleaned, and a bar which shut at 9pm.

We headed out under cloudy skies and an uncertain weather forecast. An hour’s drive brought us to sunshine and to the Cold War Museum. The museum was  set up in the underground rooms and four missile silos, which had been built in secret during the Cold War. Nuclear warheads had been kept on site, ready to be launched if necessary. 

A guide at the museum took us through the grounds to the entrance. Various rooms were filled with exhibitions and explanations about the Cold War, and various skirmishes and crises from this time, including the Cuban Missile Crisis. The English was slightly stilted, using ‘have been’ rather than ‘was’. This is something I’ve noticed native German speakers doing in English (as German lacks the simple past) and I wondered if Lithuanian followed a similar language pattern.

After visiting the room which had once held the fuel for the rockets, and still carried the chemical scent, we went on to one of the missile silos. We entered through an opening created for visitors, and looked down into the depths of the huge vertical tunnel. Our guide explained that the entire complex had been dug out by hand, at night. Most of the soldiers who had served here had not been Russian, but come from other areas of the Soviet Union. 

I found myself humming Sting’s song ‘Russians’ and Barry McGuire’s ‘Eve of Destruction’ as we walked back, rather sombre after what we’d seen. 

We drove back through the lovely forest, the trees and bird life such a contrast to the death-delivering weapons which had once hunkered under the grass. An hour later we stopped for lunch, sitting under cover outside near landscaped gardens. I had BBQ pork ribs (again!) along with kvass, a local drink made from rye bread fermented in water with sugar and honey. It was a bit like a wheat beer, cloudy and thick, slightly fizzy. I wouldn’t want it every day, but it made a nice change from Coke.

We drove around another three hours, taking a break at a service station half way (and it was exactly half way, local road sign showed 108 kilometres back to our starting town, and 108 to our destination). I was amused by a bag of marijuana potato crisps for sale in the shop. 

At 5pm we arrived in Kaunas. Our driver reversed through a narrow passageway into the hotel car park, and we applauded his expertise the moment he parked. The hotel was part of the Best Western chain, with a much larger and clearer room. And a kettle!

Half an hour later the heavens opened and rain sluiced down outside. I pulled out my waterproof and decided to carry just the one camera for the town walking tour. The start of our walk, which was supposed to be at 6pm, was postponed to 6.30pm.

This was the right call. The rain stopped, and we headed out into the grey light. We admired the local small church, and the 450 year old cross mounted on a wall nearby. The pagan symbol of a sun and rays was mounted on the centre of the cross. The modern town gave way to the lovely buildings of the old town, and the sun came out as we continued. In the main square, our guide left us to find our evening meal. I joined four others at a restaurant. As my lunch had been very large, and I’d had some snacks in my hotel room, I settled for just a porter. One person ordered a platter of local cheeses, and invited us all to join in. The highlight was the local honey, rich and thick.

After we’d finished our food and drinks, we walked back to the hotel, turning right at the huge graffiti of a hedgehog which our guide had pointed out as a landmark. 

01 June

At 9am we were on the bus and off to Trakai. On the way, our guide explained that today was the town’s festival, featuring music, a procession, and street stalls. We would have to be dropped off outside of the town and walk, and we were to expect things to be busy. I sighed, wondering whether we’d regret coming on this day.

The main attraction is the castle, built on a island in Lake Galve. The original castle was erected in the 14th century as a residence for the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. The castle fell into ruins in the 17th century and was reconstructed in 1951. 

We walked across the two bridges which led to the site. Various portions were under repair. Our guide gave us some explanations and then told us ‘The cats are now free to roam’ (having earlier in the trip telling us that looking after us was like herding cats). 

Various rooms held displays of various items, none of which were originally in the castle. I popped into a number of them. The courtyard held various structures for holding criminals such as stocks and several cages. I soon realised that the outside of the castle was of more interest than what was inside, and I made my way back across the bridges. Several people were busking along the path, and I tossed a 2 Euro coin to a girl playing the flute. Coots dove in the clear waters, including two parents who had two cootlings in tow. 

After taking a few more photos of the castle, I made my way down the main street into town. This had been pedestrianised for the day, and I browsed the many stalls. Food was on offer: Bread, smoked meats, cheeses, and honey. Handicrafts of wood and linen as well as the usual amber jewellery featured. 

I bought a dark beer and a smoked sausage. Near the stage, on which an orchestra was playing, I took a seat on a set of steps to enjoy my lunch. As I was on the other side of a semi-barrier, I assumed I was out of the way. However, about ten minutes later the procession ended at the stage, and the barrier was pulled to one side. People streamed past me, dressed in various costumes. 

After I’d finished my beer, I made my way back to the castle. Along the way, I bought the popular Lithuanian snack of deep fried dark bread. The crispy, garlicky treat was delicious and very filling. 

Our group met as instructed at 2.30pm to take a boat trip on the lake. We swung past the castle and then across the waters. The sails of other boats shone brightly against a sky of mixed blue and clouds. A few spots of rain reminded us how fortunate we’d been with the weather this holiday.

Due to the inaccessibility of the town, our guide had arranged for the boat to take us to the Uzutrakis manor house. We disembarked on to the river bank and walked up to the beautiful building, which had been originally built in the early 20th century. At least three sets of wedding couples were in the grounds, having their photographs taken. After a pleasant walk on a wide path through the forest, we arrived at the car park where our bus was waiting for us.

A short drive brought us to Vilnius, and we were in our hotel by 4pm. The place had a music theme, with posters of various artists on the walls. I joined another traveller for dinner in the hotel restaurant, where we named the various songs which we heard. Fleetwood Mac, Crosby, Stills, and Nash, Santana, Queen… I enjoyed a prawn Caesar salad and a dark beer.

02 June

A good breakfast put us in a good mood when we reported in the lobby at 9am. Our guide took us out for our morning walking tour. The grey skies soon cleared to scattered clouds, and once again we had warm temperatures and sunshine. 

Our hotel was a bit of walk to the start of the old town. We stopped to look at large depiction of a painted Easter egg, and our guide explained how Christians continued to celebrate, albeit in secret, their religion during the Soviet years. 

We visited many areas in quick succession, our guide determined to cram in as much as possible before lunch. Despite her best attempts, our group kept getting spread out, particularly as some could not match her fast pace. Town Hall Square, the Gates of Dawn (a site of pilgrimage which protects a silver-covered painting of the Virgin Mary), the Presidential Palace, and Vilnius University. In Pilies Street we had a thirty minute break for coffee. I joined two others in ordering a cake, and we had to down it quickly before our time was up.

A trip down steps at the Amber Museum revealed part of the city’s ancient foundations. We saw the Church of St Anne and ended up in the Cathedral Square. By this time, I was losing track of what we’d seen and where we were. As it was now 12.45pm, and our guide released us to do our explorations, I took a seat on a shaded bench and had a breakfast bar and cashew nuts for my lunch. 

After this break, I walked back to the University (established in 1579) and paid the 5 Euro fee to go up the tower of the nearby church, St John’s. A set of steps led to a lift, and the lift took us to the fourth floor. The views from this area were hindered by glass and many strips of metal, so I climbed up the rather scary steps to the next level. The steep and narrow planks took several turns, and the last few steps had been dug out from the brick and stone wall. As I emerged and went out on the platform to take in the views, I tried not to think about navigating my way back down.

The first Sunday of June is Father’s Day in Lithuania, and I saw a procession heading towards the Cathedral.  Turned out that this was for Corpus Christi.

The tower provided opportunities to admire the old town, the modern city lying behind, and nearby hills. The shrieking sound of a bird of prey was pumped out from loudspeakers over and over again, presumably to frighten away pigeons. When I felt I’d taken enough photos, I gathered up my courage and very slowly and carefully made my way backwards down the steps. My backpack was rather a hindrance, small as it was, as I attempted the various turnings on bits of wood not much wider than my boots. When I was safely back down and outside, I took a seat in the shade and waited for the adrenaline rush to die down.

I returned to the Cathedral Square, admiring the flowers which had been thrown on the streets as part of the procession. I went inside the Cathedral, which was much smaller than I’d expected. The first church on the site was constructed in 1251, and many times the buildings on the site have been destroyed and rebuilt. The current church dates back to 1783. During the Soviet Union time, the Cathedral was shut and later reopened as a picture gallery. In 1989 it was returned to the Catholic Church. 

For a while I rested inside and watched light fall upon the high altar. Afterwards, with clouds thickening overhead, I decided it was time to head back to the hotel. I met two others from the group and together we found our route. By the time we were back, around 4.30pm, I was ready for a shower and a rest. 

We met in the hotel lobby at 6.15am for the walk to our restaurant. Our final meal was traditional food from the region. I had the fried dark bread to go with my dark beer. I picked up and ate what I thought was some shredded cheese—it was raw garlic! My main course was Chicken Kiev (spelled that way on the menu) which came on a bed of chips with a side of carrot coleslaw and a pear stuffed with berries. I managed to drop a forkful of the latter down my shirt. Afterwards one of our group had the recommended homemade herbal spirit, which came in a small glass made of ice.

After our return to the hotel, a number of us sat in the lobby to finish off the single malt whisky and to sample the rye bread and another herbal liqueur. The last two items had been gifted to us by the restaurant. After saying goodbyes to those who were not on the group flight, we departed for our beds.

03 June

A 4.30am rise. I had coffee, fruit, and a breakfast bar in my room before reporting for departure at 5.30am. A short 15 minute drive brought us to the airport, where we dropped luggage and had no issues catching our plane to Amsterdam. A four hour wait until the flight to Heathrow made for a much more relaxed change of planes. My luggage appeared safe and sound, and I made my way by underground and train to a rather grey and chilly Northampton. Back home and holiday over!